Free tool

Needle & Thread Finder

Pick the fabric you are sewing. The finder gives the needle size and type, the thread, the stitch length and the presser foot to use - and draws the needle, the spool and the fabric to scale.

How needle sizes work

A sewing machine needle carries two numbers, like 80/12: the first is the European size (the blade's diameter in hundredths of a millimetre), the second the American size. The higher the number, the thicker the needle. Fine fabrics want a fine needle so the holes do not show; heavy fabrics need a thick one so it does not bend or break.

The point matters as much as the size. A universal needle has a slightly rounded point for most wovens. A ballpoint or stretch needle pushes between knit loops instead of cutting them, which stops skipped stitches and runs. Jeans needles are stiff and sharp for dense twill, microtex needles are very sharp for silk and microfibre, and leather needles have a cutting wedge point.

Thread weight in one paragraph

Thread weight works backwards: a 30 wt thread is thicker than a 50 wt. All-purpose polyester (around 50 wt) suits most sewing. Use heavier thread for topstitching and upholstery with a bigger needle, and finer 60 wt thread for bobbins in embroidery and for delicate fabric.

Questions

What size needle should I use for cotton?

A 75/11 or 80/12 universal or quilting needle suits most quilting cotton, poplin and lawn, with all-purpose polyester or 50 wt cotton thread.

What needle do I use for stretchy fabric?

A ballpoint (jersey) needle for T-shirt knits, and a stretch needle for spandex, swimwear and activewear. Use a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag so the seam can stretch too.

Can I use a regular needle for denim?

A universal needle often bends or breaks on denim seams. Use a jeans needle, 90/14 for light denim and 100/16 for heavy denim and hem seams.